New York Fashion Week Calvin Klein Fashion Show: Under the Great White Shark

At the opening moment, a huge surround screen plays a fragment of The Great White Shark. The spectators were really frightened, for fear of seeing the shark's bite. Fortunately, at the start of the millennium, the opening model attracted her eyes... a tweed jacket with a wetsuit! Shocked, not from shark bites The picture, but from something that is inherently free.

Therefore, Raf Simons's latest collection for Calvin Klein is like a collection of surreal movies. The Great White Shark has obvious marks. Such a picture and T-shirt are also interesting. The college boys walking on the runway wore bachelor hats and walked slowly in robes. Under the music of Simon and Garfunkel, it became the new "Graduate", and Raf said after the show: "The two films occupy an important position in my memory." In the latest American citizenship and emotions In the survey, the two films also occupied a pivotal position.

In the past, under the influence of Hitchcock and David Lynch, Simons had revealed the lies of the American dream. This fashion show is no exception. He said that his theme is "the beauty will eventually become a disaster in love, nature and politics." In other words, human beings live on this narrow planet after all.

In a sense, this series does not present an optimistic atmosphere. In the middle of the United States, the decent and uncomfortable sexiness has a touching tension. On one side is a pleated cocktail dress, irregularly inlaid with a brooch, paired with a kitten and heel. On the other side is a suffocating black latex coat. Mrs Robinson, let me introduce you to Bartholomew Quint?

The two worlds meet on a pleated skirt shattered by shark teeth, a surreal picture, and the essence of these films from Hitchcock and Lynch makes everyday life scary.

Not only in Calvin Klein, but also in his own series of works often conveys this feeling. Recalling the hole-shaped letter sweater of his previous works, it is magnified in those cocktail dresses. It seems to have a tragic meaning, or the traditional custom-made jacket, knit and black rubber match, which greatly breaks the routine.

The current mood is like an off-track world, a huge weird sign swaying down the fragile earth surface, waiting to break through everything. And the political subtext of this is isolated.

With Bowie's "This is not America" ​​ringing, the fashion show is over, which seems to be the habit of Calvin Klein under Raf Simons. In addition to the past, "Scarborough Fair" was replaced by the chorus of Simon and Garfunkel from Graduates. Sweet and sad... This is a strange and ambiguous expression, the last sigh. There, hope is so heavy.